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The question is where to go to Mass. St Mark’s seems to discourage the habit on Sundays. The authorities may wish to prevent sightseeing under the guise of piety. But if you turn up for the 6.45pm vigil Mass, you find the main doors closed. Entrance is by an unmarked door in the north facade, through a curtain. It’s an astonishing place to worship, but the music isn’t up to much and the congregation fills only a few rows.